佩高酒庄–精选教皇新堡红酒

"The 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée is a terrific effort still in its prime. Marked by scents of sweaty horse tack, it's also loaded with sweet black cherries, hints of smoke and dried herbs. Full-bodied and velvety, it finishes long and rich, with the suggestion of warm generosity. I suspect not everyone will love this wine, but for me, it beautifully captures the character of great, traditional Southern Rhônes."

"Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink 2016-2030."

"Beautiful in the vintage, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee is a forward, perfumed example of the cuvee that has classic Pegau black fruits, tobacco leaf, pepper and leathery notes as well as medium to full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. Early-drinking by this estate’s standards, there’s nevertheless good mid-palate density and fine tannin. It should have 15 years or so of overall longevity. Drink now-2026."

"One of my favorite wines, the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvee Réservée is a classic. Beautiful on the nose, with notions of ground pepper, wild herbs, minerality and smoked plum and dark fruit, it’s medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated and has plenty of tannin that comes through on the finish. Similar in style to a lighter-weight 2010, drink this beauty anytime over the coming 12-15 years."

"There’s an incredible track record of wines from this estate, even from difficult vintages, aging beautifully. A beautiful wine, especially in the vintage, the 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre and the rest other permitted grapes) has more depth and richness than most, as well as classic Pégaü notes of ripe black cherries, peppery herbs, tobacco leaf and hints of bloody meat. Medium-bodied, nicely textured and layered, it doesn't have the length or richness of a top vintage, but it has tons of character and given the track record here, I've no doubt it will have at least 10-12+ years of longevity."

"According to Laurence Féraud, the 2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee was bottled in November 2016. It's already drinking well, with charming aromas of potpourri leading the way. It's medium to full-bodied, rounded out by just enough cherry fruit, then drawing to a spicy, leather-and-silk finish. Féraud calls it her little Burgundy."

"Now that it has been in bottle a while, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee is looking even better than I projected based on last year's prebottling sample. It's all violets, cherries, subtle allspice and clove and traditional garrigue notes of lavender and thyme. Full-bodied and rich, it's crazy complex, adding hints of tar and black olives on the long, silky finish. It should evolve beautifully over the next two decades."

"Every year that I've tried the 2016 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée, I've liked it better than the year before, so I've gone ahead and peremptorily added the + sign to this year's rating. Black cherries and licorice pick up a hint of chocolate in this full-bodied, rich, velvety wine that should evolve nicely for at least 12-15 years."

"The 2017 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée hits the standard assemblage: 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 10% "others." Still in cask at the time of my visit, it has expressive floral and garrigue notes, plus hints of star anise layered over a base of black cherries. Full-bodied, deep and rich, this looks like a vintage to set aside for a while, with at least 15 years of longevity ahead of it."

"The 2018 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Réservée is full-bodied but quite approachable and easy to drink, loaded with black cherries and plummy fruit and tinged with licorice. A blend of 80% Grenache, 6% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 10% other permitted varieties, it finishes long and silky."